Anna Zakletska about her ethno-brand 'STRIY': I combine the wisdom of our ancestors, embedded in patterns and colors, with modern designs that align with the spirit and challenges of our time

Anna Zakletska is a Ukrainian TV and radio host, known as the voice of Radio "Promin" and the face of many television programs in Ukraine. She has always been passionate about exploring her family heritage and has deeply studied the ethnic culture, symbolism, and traditions of the Ukrainian people. Her love for the legacy of past generations inspired her to create her own ethnic clothing brand, STRIY. Through this brand, Anna sought not only to preserve the outward appearance of ethnic attire but also to uncover and convey the meaning behind each individual symbol featured on the fabric. The founder firmly believes that the wisdom of ancestors can serve as a powerful tool, and her mission is to bridge that wisdom with the spirit of contemporary events. Anna shared with Drive Music Media how her grandmother's stories laid the foundation for her brand, how she combines ethnic traditions with modernity, and her personal mission in the fashion industry.

Interviewer: Your journey in television and radio journalism began as a child’s game with your grandmother. Even then, you were curious about Ukrainian culture and eager to ask meaningful questions. What do you remember about that time, and how do you reflect on the importance of her stories? How did her stories influence your life and career choices? Could you share your journey toward creating your brand, and why you chose television and radio journalism? And what led you to create the brand?

Anna: I often think back to my childhood and the ways I entertained guests and family at home. Almost everything I was passionate about then eventually became my profession – from directing to ballet improvisations performed to cassette recordings on Mayak, from puppet theater to fashion shows. Playing the role of a journalist was no exception. In fact, I also owe a lot to my school, #211 in Obolon, Kyiv. Our teachers frequently assigned creative projects, like “My Grandmother’s Memories of the Holodomor” or “War in Ukraine”. I loved recording my grandmother’s stories on a voice recorder my dad had brought back from Europe in the 1990s. 

Back then, I didn’t fully realize how important those moments were or how profoundly they would influence me later. I grew up in a “bubble” surrounded by conscious, creative individuals like Anatolii Haidamaka, Valentyn Kozachenko, Taras Petrynenko, Myroslav and Taras Melnyk, Petro Honchar, Nina Matvienko, and many others. These people always understood the importance of language, culture, independence, and education. For me, there was never a question of “what difference does it make?” Instead, I eagerly participated in folklore expeditions, listened attentively to stories and debates, and absorbed as much as I could.

The idea of creating clothing came to me quite early – I sketched designs at the age of 10. However, I lost the courage to express myself, and those sketches ended up in a drawer. It wasn’t until 2021, after the passing of Serhii Proskurnia, that he appeared to me in a dream and said, “Anusia, how much longer will you hide? Just do it”. That’s when I started. It felt like the right time. By then, I had gathered enough knowledge and research about the significance of forms, colors, symbols, and words. My grandmother’s stories became the foundation of the concept, and the brand began to take shape. On December 3, 2022, the first collection was introduced to the world.

Interviewer: Despite a background in political science and a career as a TV host, you continued exploring native folklore and eventually founded your own Ukrainian clothing brand, “STRIY”. What inspired you to create the brand? Why did you choose this name? What does the slogan “Clothing that heals” mean?

 Anna: "STRIY: More Than Clothing". Clothing has meaning. The STRIY brand is rooted in my grandmother’s teachings and my own research into folklore, particularly its pre-Christian interpretations. According to these teachings and research, everything in the world is composed of the same smallest particles, which, if viewed under a microscope, are in constant motion. The density and configuration of these particles determine the properties of everything around us.  

Everything alive vibrates at certain frequencies. This principle connects disciplines like mathematics (geometry), physics, music, and psychology – they all describe the laws of existence through different methods. Every color has a corresponding sound, frequency, spatial, temporal, and emotional equivalent. Therefore, color, form, the creative process, and the material itself hold great significance.  

A note here: the laws of existence function regardless of whether we believe in them or not. We may not believe in gravity, but it still operates! However, if we consciously take control of our lives, we can influence and even transcend these laws – overcoming gravity, for example. Achieving this requires a deliberate approach, a deep understanding of mechanics, and the persistent application of personal willpower.

Thus, STRIY is meaningful clothing – clothing that heals. "STRIY: More Than Clothing". "Why does it heal?" – you might ask. The word "striy" in Ukrainian etymologically means wholeness and originates from the concept of three-dimensionality. This three-dimensionality embodies wisdom for life: without roots, growth is impossible; without a crown, there is no development; without new branches, there can be no higher aspirations. We are whole when we draw nourishment from our roots, nurture our crown, and foster new generations of branches. Our language contains words with the root “tri”, like "stroyinnist" (ed. – harmony), "struinist" (ed. –slenderness), and "stroiennia" (ed. – building). They all relate to construction or authentic alignment – being in tune with oneself. The Tree of Life symbolizes this three-dimensionality: its roots connect to the underworld of ancestors "Nava", its crown flourishes in the tangible world of the living "Yav", and its branches stretch toward the divine realm "Prav".  

"Black" represents Nava. In physics, black results from mixing all colors; it signifies the absence of light and, metaphorically, the total potential of all possibilities.  

"Red" symbolizes Yav, the world of passion, life, love, and movement – a color that captures attention and conceals.  

"White" signifies Prav. In physics, it encompasses all colors of the spectrum, the opposite of black, representing the full potential of all illuminated possibilities.

"STRIY" combines ancestral wisdom – tools that help organize life, space, and relationships using patterns, colors, and forms – with modern designs that address today’s spirit and challenges.

Today, it is especially important for me to uncover Ukraine not only for the world but also for Ukrainians themselves. For too long, our history, culture, and traditions have been distorted, erased, or destroyed. Through STRIY, I aim to revive and reintroduce this heritage.

Interviewer: Tell us about your brand's presentation. What was it like? What advice would you give to aspiring designers presenting their brand for the first time? What would you never do again, and what would you certainly repeat?

 Anna: The presentation consumed me as an artist. I was the writer, composer, singer, and performer of the theatrical event that introduced my brand. The show was based on an ancient Ukrainian creation myth depicted in the pre-Christian carol "From the Beginning of Time". I adapted the text slightly and set it to contemporary music. The musical arrangement was inspired by Katia Chilly's song "Son" and by one of those creative visions I often experience – almost like hearing my grandmother’s voice, singing and guiding me.  

I shared my ideas with Oleksandr Zhyzhchenko (ed. – the elder brother of Nata Zhyzhchenko from ONUKA), who refined them with brilliant arrangements that perfectly captured my vision. He recorded my vocals and incorporated the sacred sounds of live instruments: the sopilka-floyara played by the virtuoso Oles Zhuravchak, the cimbalom by the multi-instrumentalist Andrii Voichuk, and the bandura by the incredibly talented and charismatic Yevhen Yovenko. I am incredibly fortunate to collaborate with such talented individuals. The men not only supported the project but performed live at the event, adding divine masculine energy to a world rich with feminine beauty.  As for the women – our models and performers – they were students and alumnae of my mother Raisa Zakletska's ensemble "Zerniatko". Some were from my generation when I was part of the vocal and dance group, and others were my own students. Each of them is so talented and unique. Collaborating with them was an honor, and I’m deeply grateful for their contributions.

Interviewer: A unique feature of your brand is combining ethnic symbolism with modern fashion – dresses, T-shirts, and tunics. Why did you decide to merge the two instead of focusing exclusively on traditional styles?

Anna: I love wearing ethnic, sacred, protective clothing every day – whether I’m running errands or battling the cold. So I created what I personally lacked: everyday cuts that pair with sneakers but feature symbolic prints like the "Birth of the Universe" motif designed by my sister Ivanna Zakletska.  

For colder weather, I reimagined the Lemko traditional "kryza" or "kryvulka". Originally crafted from beads, the cold beads on my neck and shoulders were uncomfortable during winter. So, I designed a warmer version using merino wool. You can wear it over any base layer – it’s warm, ethnic, and festive at the same time.

 Interviewer: Who designs the clothing? What symbols do you choose for the prints, and how do you select them? What materials do you use for the garments?

 Anna: I have been studying Ukrainian semiotics for years and am currently preparing a book that explains Ukrainian numerology, which forms the foundation of geometric patterns, Christmas stars, and other ornaments.  

The selection process is meticulous. Not everything looks as good in practice as it does on paper. Sometimes, what seems beautiful in a sketch doesn’t translate well to the garment. All designs draw from Ukrainian traditions and the principle of balance and harmony – the universal order toward which all chaos strives. This is the essence of Ukrainian semiotics: finding equilibrium and reflecting our inner states, thoughts, actions, and words. 

For example, "vytynanka" (ed. – traditional papercut art) reflects the principle "as above, so below". Every pattern in my designs embodies this idea – teaching us to seek inner balance and peace.  

This is a topic that can’t be summarized in just a sentence or two. I invite you to wait for my book, where I delve deeper into these ideas. It explores space, time, meaning, sensations, sounds, and images – all intricately intertwined and layered.

Interviewer: Tell us about your brand's participation in the festival held in Chicago this August. Your brand showcased its collection during the event. What was the preparation process like, and how did the event unfold?

Anna: I have extensive experience participating in festivals as a singer, dancer, and host. However, attending events as a designer is a new and exciting role for me. I was deeply honored to be invited to participate in this festival, and it was incredibly fulfilling to see that most of the outfits modeled on the runway were immediately claimed by the models themselves.  

For me, this is a huge source of inspiration and proof that modern cuts infused with sacred symbols resonate with people and are in demand. It's not just about creating beautiful clothing; it's about conveying meaning. Our ancestors never wore anything without purpose – every item carried profound symbolism. I strive to revive this understanding because, as the saying goes, “It’s pointless to change the oars if you don’t know where you’re rowing.” In the case of our culture, people often don’t even realize they’re "in a boat"! So, how can we talk about rowing if they think they’re standing on dry land?

 Interviewer: In addition to dresses, T-shirts, and tunics, your brand also creates headpieces, including namitka-style hoods. What makes them unique, and are they practical in today’s world? Tell us about both your summer and winter collections.

Anna: "Namytka-hoods" are not my most popular item, to be honest, but I’m used to being a trailblazer – introducing new trends and habits that eventually catch on. I believe that in a few years, namytka-hoods will become as common as wreaths or necklaces are today. 

As for winter headpieces, I’ve created “makivnychky” (ed. – headbands adorned with flowers at the temples) and warm wreaths. These designs stem from my personal preferences and needs – I dislike traditional winter hats. My makivnychky and wreaths can be worn over any basic hat, scarf, or shawl, offering a warm, ethnic, and stylish look. When it gets warmer, you can remove the hat or scarf and wear the makivnychka as a standalone accessory.  

 Additionally, each makivnychka is unique – handmade with love and care. They can also double as belts or chokers, making them versatile and distinctive pieces.  

Interviewer: Your brand not only promotes Ukrainian culture but also participates in charity events, including auctions. Tell us more about the charitable side of your work.

Anna: Charity has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember – whether through my mother’s ensemble, on my own, or now in collaboration with Svitlana Lehka’s charitable foundation "Svitlyi".  

Our mission has always been to preserve and promote Ukrainian culture, engage in cultural diplomacy, and support the traditions, language, and heritage of our nation. This has been our focus long before the full-scale invasion and even before the war began in 2014. 

Today, this mission extends to supporting Ukraine through fundraising efforts led by Svitlana’s foundation. The foundation works in several areas, including rebuilding de-occupied territories, assisting military units, and supporting entire communities in the Kyiv region. While balancing charitable work with limited commercial opportunities is challenging, I am grateful for the chance to contribute to Ukraine in this way. We face obstacles daily, but we persevere. Together, we will overcome them. 

Interviewer: As a designer and founder of your brand, what is your mission? What single word best describes your brand, and why?

Anna: My mission is to restore and preserve the knowledge of my lineage. My journey didn’t begin with ambitions of global recognition or commercial success. It started with the realization of how little we know about our ancestors. The Soviet Union severed many ties to our roots, erasing connections to who we were, who we are, and where we’re headed. I decided to be the ancestor who documents our worldview, memories, and traditions for future generations. My goal is to ensure my descendants never question their heritage or identity. I encourage every Ukrainian – and everyone on this planet – to explore their family history, not relying solely on official records but speaking to their living relatives and documenting their stories. I call this "The Book of Your Lineage".  

 Interviewer: What are your next steps in this field? Do you aim to enter the international market?  

Anna: Absolutely! As the saying goes, "A soldier who doesn’t dream of becoming a general is a bad one". I dream of conquering the international market and am actively working toward that goal. My brand is highly exclusive, with each piece produced in limited editions of five to ten items. However, I am confident that when the time is right, the global market will embrace the beauty and meaning of Ukrainian ethnic fashion.

Pictures were provided by Anna Zakletska. Photographs of clothes were taken by Miha Haikin. Photographs from presentation were taken by Oleg Soshko